MOROCCO TRIP - Day Eight - Erg Chigaga to Ouarzazate

OK, OK I know, by the time I actually get round to finishing my posts about our Morocco trip you could have gone there and back yourself! Sorry, life does tend to get in the way of blogging! So anyway, back to the desert.


We both slept like rocks in our Berber camp in the dunes, clearly this environment works for both of us. Dominick, being a goal driven kind of a guy got up at dawn specifically to climb to the top of the highest dune (300 meters) to get some photos of the sunrise.


Me, being a lazy creature, stayed in bed for an extra half an hour! I then got up and walked around the perimeters of the camp, reading the stories left in the sand by visitors during the night, seems there was quite a lot of traffic passing through from tiny beetles to lizards and various mammals that remain a mystery.
Dominick got his sunrise shots.




This has to be one of the most spell-binding places to wake up.



It was a real wrench to even think about leaving.



We ate breakfast in the midst of a sea of sand


And then it was time to climb aboard our trusty camels and set sail again. I think that Dominick would have been quite happy if he never had to sit on a camel again in his life but credit to him he did, in spite of some vicious saddle sores acquired the day before!


He was actually far more comfortable this time because we didn't have the baskets attached to the saddle.


I, of course, was just sitting there grinning like an idiot and wishing that this moment never had to end!


We even began to almost look as if we knew what we were doing, don't worry it is all an illusion and Muhammed was standing close by to grab hold of the lead rope after the photo was taken.


What makes you think I might be enjoying myself? (Told you I was grinning like an idiot!)


If you look carefully at this photo you will see that the camel beside Dominick's left knee does not have a lead rope on. That is Mkhanter, living up to his name again and strolling into the middle of the photo, well he didn't want to get left out and of course he then proceeded to get wonderfully tangled in the rope between Dominick's and my camel! You have got to love this guy, he is such a clown :)


All too soon our wonderful morning ride was over. Brahim and Said had driven out to meet us so we said our goodbyes to Muhammed and his wonderful team. With, inevitably a few more photos.



We got back into the Land Cruiser and set off. One area we drove across was a 40 kilometer stretch of dried lake bed which is part of the Paris Dakar route and is a highlight for all drivers. Those little dots you can see are several vehicles all racing each other.


Well those of you who know me will know that I have a bit of a 'thing' about driving and racing (blame my Dad!) so I was positively salivating at this point.
The distant dot is Brahim (our driver), in the foreground, to the left, is me, working out if I can run faster than him and steal the Cruiser!


However I actually didn't need to steal it. Can you believe this amazing guy actually handed it over graciously! So Brahim if you ever want to sell a couple of camels for a new wife - sign me up! Never let it be said that I'm a push-over, unless you are prepared to hand over your three month old Land Cruiser to me so that I can race it on the Paris Dakar route in the Sahara! In which case, I'm all yours! Who needs diamonds anyway??!!


So after I had stopped squealing like a school girl, we got on our way again.


Sadly we did have to leave the desert behind us but I have sworn, I will be back. This place has definitely captured my imagination and I must spend some more time here one day.


Of course the scenery everywhere in this amazing country never fails to impress.


We were heading for a town called Taznachkt but of course we kept having to stop for photo op's because the land was just so beautiful.


We were going to Taznachkt to have lunch at Said's sisters house. It was a very odd experience for a mouthy, 'in-your-face' western woman to visit someones house, eat delicious food that they have clearly spent a lot of time and effort preparing especially for you and yet never actually get to meet the person. I do try very hard not to pass judgment on other peoples cultures and traditions but being the only other woman in the situation this was a tough one for me. I did manage not to comment though! Dominick did ask after we had left how come we didn't get to meet his sister and thank her for the wonderful lunch and the explanation given was that she was too shy! R-I-G-H-T!!!
After lunch we visited a carpet making co-operative as Dominick had decided he wanted to get a couple of small carpets to give to friends. He was now extremely comfortable in the Moroccan mode of haggling over prices for everything you buy so I left him to drive a hard bargain and waited outside until he was done!


Our destination for the night was Ouarzazate, also known as the Hollywood of Morocco! Just before we reached the outskirts of the city Said explained that we were going to stop to get some gas at a gas station we were approaching. This in itself was quite unusual because throughout our entire trip all refueling and car maintenance had been done at times when we were not around. But as we pulled up to the gas station the mystery was solved, and this time it was Dominick who was squealing like a school girl!


Now this will only have relevance to those of you who are into really nasty horror movies, which I most definitely am not but the gas station was a total fake and had been built specifically to shoot a film called The Hills Have Eyes. Dominick loves horror movies so he was delighted to see this and rushed round taking pictures! Score for Brahim and Said - you've managed to delight both of us with two totally random things, in one day!


We eventually arrived at our riad in Ouarzazate after dark, with the slim new moon riding low in the night sky. Brahim was intrigued to know why I like looking at the moon so much so I explained to him that we see the moon sitting at a totally different angle in America and Europe compared to how you see it in Africa. He was very understanding with the crazy English lady and her moon fixation!
Our riad was a delightful maze of passages and stairways that were guaranteed to confuse but our room was beautiful and felt very opulent after the desert.




Photo Credits - CJT & Dominick V

MOROCCO TRIP - Day Seven - Erg Chigaga

There are certain rare days in your life that as you are living them you want to remember every sight, sound, smell and sensation for the memory banks, these precious days we hope will last for ever are few and far between but when they happen they are a gift indeed.
We awoke early in the desert and climbed into the dunes next to our camp as the sun was rising. There was a beautiful untouched freshness to everything around us.

The sand readily gave up its secrets of what had passed by during the night with a myriad of different tracks. What small amounts of vegetation there were, were all blooming in soft, delicate shades and catching the morning dew.


Most remarkable of all, I discovered a fungus growing in the desert! I see I have a lot to learn about this extraordinary ecosystem.


We made our way back into camp to find that breakfast was served


And, like the previous night, we had several visitors. This wheatear was collecting fibres from the roof of the dining room, presumably for nesting material.


And the Desert Sparrows would probably have landed on our breakfast table given the opportunity! This is the female


And this the far fancier, male.


During the night our ships had come in - ships of the desert that is.


They were waiting patiently for us to begin our journey.



This is the lead camel who took his job very seriously indeed.


We packed up our few bits and pieces, each camel was equipped with a saddle and two baskets. Our supplies were loaded into the baskets and then we sat on the saddles with our legs in front of the baskets. We all know the rather laborious process of a camel standing up, a three stage process where you are thrown backwards and forwards. Finally we were ready to go.


I was actually quite comfortable and soon settled into a rhythm (all those years of horse riding have to help somewhat!) Unfortunately Dominick was a little less secure, apparently he couldn't get his legs in front of the baskets and so he had to sit with them over the baskets which certainly didn't look very comfortable.


Zaid was our guide for the day and Mohammed was in charge of the camels. They both walked in front leading Dominick's camel.


My camel was attached to the back of Dominick's


And the third member of the team was a young one who just wandered along behind us at his own pace.


My camel was no where near as focused on his work as Dominick's and would wander around on the end of his rope, calling to other camels, going slowly then speeding up and biting Dominick's camel. At one point he had the entire tail of Dominick's camel in his mouth!


Hmmm how did I end up with the naughty camel??!


None the less this is an incredibly peaceful form of travel. The camels huge, soft feet make barely any sound and the gentle rocking motion as they walk is really comfortable. I can totally see why they are called ships of the desert.
I had to keep reminding myself, I am riding a camel in the Sahara Desert! This is so amazing :)
We rode for about three hours and then found a large tamerisk tree to rest under.


Time for a lunch break


As they were the ones doing all the work, I should formally introduce our camels I think. This is Dominick's camel, Hanafi, which means a well known, respected camel. He was a very serious fellow.


This is my camel, Ba3rouri, which means the lazy or naughty one - imagine that!


And this is the baby of the bunch who trundled along behind us, he is called Mkhanter which means the one who plays tricks or jokes! (More on that in a minute!)


So now you have met the camels, time for lunch. Mohammed led the camels away to another area to browse


Whilst Zaid prepared lunch and the essential mint tea and Dominick struck a pose!


After a delicious lunch we all partook in a very peaceful siesta


And then after a couple of hours we were ready to hit the road again. Mohammed gathered up our trusty steeds and brought them back to be saddled up and at this point Mkhanter (living up to his name) decided it would be a good idea to steal a loaf of bread out of one of the baskets!


How could you possibly be angry with him? Instead we sneaked a quick kiss! FYI anything you have heard about camels being nasty, these three sweeties would total dispel that. They were gentle and soft and extremely friendly.


Then we hit the road again and rode for another three hours until we arrived at our camp at Erg Ezzahara (The Screaming Dunes). Said and Brahim were waiting on a dune for us, both looking very cool and relaxed. This is the area they both originate from so they are totally at home in this stunning environment.
I, of course, didn't want my camel ride to end but Ba3rouri wanted everyone to know just what an arduous a day he had had (also living up to his name!) good job he didn't have to carry Dominick, then he would know what tired was!


But we soon made friends :)


Hanafi remained stoic throughout, check out the grimace on Dominick's face! He was hurting far worse than Hanafi at this point!


Dominick hobbled off in great discomfort whilst I hung around with the guys and the camels, trying to learn how to pronounce the camels names properly. I also discovered that Brahim's nickname is Mkhanter! Fair warning we have another joker in the pack!


And nestled in amongst the dunes was our home for the night


Now I am as happy as a pig in 'you know what'. Although as it's a Muslim country I should probably go with a different species of farm creature!


The view from our camp wasn't too shabby either!






That is if you like sand of course!
We watched the sun sink down amongst the dunes



And cast a glorious glow across the sky



As darkness fell the African new moon appeared again and we sat around the fire whilst the guys sang and played drums. It was one of those times when I thought, if I were to die now, I would die totally content. I have just lived through the perfect day, and this spellbinding place truly is my idea of heaven.




Photo Credits - CJT & Dominick V